There are Two Posts Today, Read the One Below as Well...

As the dala-dala wars have waxed and waned, we’ve had ever more exciting times with transportation in Dar. Yesterday we went to Kariakoo, a large section of Dar es Salaam with TONS of random wares as well as a fruit and vegetable market with our main goal to obtain the later. We caught a dala-dala, which is really convenient because one runs from our hotel door directly to the market, and were off on our daily adventure. Since Betsy’s research has begun to wind down, we’ve already conducted most of the key-informant interviews she needed in Dar, we have had to struggle to maintain sanity while keeping ourselves busy. One of the worst things to do is to ride a dala-dala to its terminating point, I would not suggest it. However, riding them in general is quite entertaining as a pseudo-masochistic approach to life in Dar.
Being that our hotel is close to the starting point for the Kawe-Kariakoo dala-dala, we were able to secure seating. About half way to Kariakoo, the bus was filled and a larger woman was standing next to me. Trying to be chivalrous, I stood up and offered her my seat, to which she adamantly declined. The man standing next to her was more than willing, but seeing that she was uninterested, I returned to my seat. At the next stop we must have picked up a great number of riders because it was instantly packed! This didn’t work in my favor, as I had the large woman’s breasts firmly planted in my face. Normally, I probably wouldn’t mind this situation, however, she smelt of rotten-eggs and the bag of milk she was carrying was dripping on my leg. Helpless to do anything about the dripping milk, I tried in vain to hold my breath until losing consciousness, which I felt was a better fate than what I was dealing with at the moment. Trying not to be overly dramatic, as I am now, I exited to the dala-dala to see that Betsy was laughing hysterically; she had been sitting a couple rows behind in full view of the unfolding events to which she most eloquently stated, “You smell like eggs.”
That being said, we head to Zanzibar today, and our journey takes an abrupt turn towards tourism. I can’t say that I’m disappointed, since this was the main reason I came along with Betsy, but it’s sad that we probably won’t be able to truly convey our experiences with people who weren’t with us. The gestalt of our experience was one of good, bad and ugly, although in retrospect most of our blog posts tended towards the negative and uniquely bizarre. In all honesty, there were plenty of “good” times, we were predisposed to omitting these because they were average and bordering mundane but I digress.
We hope, in the next handful of weeks, to continue our blogs as we travel the country-side with Betsy’s parents, however spotty our internet connection may be. Although not as anthropologically interesting as our previous 6.5 months, I’m sure the pictures from the wildebeest migration in the Serengeti as well as photos atop Kilimanjaro will satisfy.
-Ryan

Beep-Beep, Move out the Way!

It seems as though I just won’t be able to shake the idea that I’m Chinese within the remaining time we have in Tanzania. We were asked yesterday what our indigenous language was, most Tanzanians have what they call “vernacular” which is their tribal or regional tongue, because they could not understand how I could speak English so well being that I am from China. As my hair becomes longer, it seems that Tanzanians are increasingly convinced that I’m Chinese, even though I insist otherwise. Luckily, Clement, our safari guide from Haydom, knows I am not Chinese, or so I think, which means that he can relay that on to other Tanzanians we meet along the way… oh well, I’ll be in Italy in a month where they think I’m Italian, so I’ve got that going for me.
Speaking of foreigners, they have EXCELLENT Indian cuisine here, it’s purely amazing! We have, as well as every other wazungu in Tanzania has (hello Alex, Bhog 56 anyone?), found “our” Indian restaurant which we frequent almost on a weekly basis. Our favorite place use to be Ladybird’s, as we exclaimed in a previous post, but it was shut down and we now discovered Purnemia. They dole out the strangest combination of sweet and spicy-hot I’ve ever had and we love it!
I continue to order the same thing every time we go there, little fried balls which are packed with the most wonderful fillings! One ball has an anise filling which has a slight taste of black licorice, another has what seems to be sweet-potato but they (the cook) insists it’s not, and the third, well, that’s hard to describe aside from delicious. If I had to articulate what they were, I could only describe them as falafel type of food. Along with these delicious balls come sides of spiced coconut milk with shavings and a spicy mango salad. After eating the mango salad, which is medium spicy, I thought that the coconut milk would help out my mouth… as you can imagine, the sweet, cool flavor of coconut going down your throat is great until the spice kicks-in! Fortunately, Betsy was prudent enough to remember water.
After having lived in Dar for about a month now, we’ve started to unearth new and usually better locations to acquire goods. We both love wheat bread back home but this is almost impossible to find here in Tanzania! We were purchasing bread from a local bakery down the street which only sells white bread; although, they are good at tricking you into thinking you’re buying something exotic. They have about twenty different shapes of bread, from standard loaf, baguette, bun, twisted pretzel, roll, misshapen loaf, lumpy loaf and last but not least, the mini-loaf. Betsy was insistent that we try every “type” of bread just to be sure there wasn’t a diamond in the rough. Needless to say, we never did find the elusive wheat loaf but we were able to sample a GIANT German style white-bread pretzel!
On our way home from the bakery today, we were almost run-down by a trash cart. Two men running down the road pushing an improvised two wheeled contraption, fortunately for us they had verbal warning system which mimicked a car horn and we all narrowly averted calamitous disaster.
-Ryan

New roommates

We've been slacking on the blog posting lately, but truth be told, we've been really boring. My research has pretty much wrapped up since the one person in the government who deals with adolescent nutrition isn't too helpful, and no one else that I've talked to deals with adolescents at all. So, now our schedule as of late has consisted of working out at the gym at the embassy in the morning, then vegging in the airconditioning in the afternoon.

A friend of mine from ISU has been in Dar for the past few days, preparing to leave Tanzania after living in the forest listening to chimps for 19 months. His daily trips to various government offices strewn about Dar es Salaam makes our COSTECH/Immigration issues look like a cakewalk! I guess I'm glad that anyone off the street just can't import kilos upon kilos of ape poo.... but it makes me glad I
work with people.... Anyway, the community of poor graduate students in Tanzania is small, and welcoming, so through a long string of a friend of a friend of a friend-type acquaintances starting with my ISU friend Alex, we were offered a free room in a house rented by an American professor. Of course, after hearing 'free' we jumped at the opportunity, and packed up all of our stuff, loaded it into a cab and headed over. Of course we've never met the professor, and until yesterday when we showed up in the cab, had never met her student who was staying in the house. Emily, it turns out, is very nice.

We're also sharing the house with the professor's cat, who seems to survive just fine without anyone around to care for it for months at a time. Yesterday, we saw it chase a bird, bat it down mid-flight, and eat half of it. The other half, he proudly brought it into the house and left in the middle of the floor as a snack for later. The other roommates are, unfortunately, the bravest and most outgoing bunch of African cockroaches I've ever seen. Bugs are obviously a big problem in a tropical area such as Dar, and with the people gone, the roaches seem to have taken over the house! I'm not a fan to say the least, and generally just freeze and become completely worthless when I see them. Alex thinks that killing them will just make a mess. So, he's taken to grabbing them with his hands (gah!) and tossing them out the door. Ryan's taken a different approach, and chases them down and beats them with a broom. The cat and Emily just ignore them.

So, we've learned that paying for your housing gets you things....like insecticide and air conditioning....but we'll deal with a couple of bugs for a few days to save a few bucks.

"People with heads worth protecting wear bike helmets" -Bill Danforth

We’ve been settling in to our routines here in Dar. Which mostly consist of banging our heads against various government ministries. We’ve made some headway with Ryan’s visa renewal this week. After submitting his application, a million passport-sized photos, a copy of his resume and college transcript, then being told to return on a federal holiday when they were closed, returning the next day to find that they had ‘misplaced’ his application, and didn’t want to take the time to look for it, we returned yet again. This time, they had miraculously found Ryan’s folder and let us pay for the visa!! That was a major step, as we got a receipt! And they glued it to his application! This is progress! They told us to return in 4 working days, and THEN the visa will be re-stamped into his passport.

Other than immigration, I’ve been trying to interview people about Tanzanian health and adolescent policy, and learning that although people may be nicer at other ministries, they run at about the same efficiency level.

In our many travels, we see TONS of bikers. It’s probably the most common mode of transport here. Bike helmets aren’t sold in Tanzania and we’ve only seen one biker with a modern helmet. (Thanks to my dad's constant chiding, and several traumatic junior high years as the ONLY kid who had to wear a helmet, I pay pretty close attention to this.) The rest of the bikers who are concerned about protecting their heads, have to get creative. We’ve seen: baseball batting helmets, motorcycle helmets – worn both forwards and backwards, construction hats, and one guy wearing a WWII-era German military helmet.